When it comes to great brand stories, Omega really takes the market in its sights. It has been worn by Bond, has been to the moon, has timed Olympic records and has traveled even to the deepest reaches of the Mariana Trench.
Omega is also a master watchmaker: it pioneered the tourbillon in a wristwatch, took the coaxial escapement from George Daniels – one of the most important timepieces of the 20th century – and mass-produced it, and even found a way to make a watch resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gaus.
From scuba divers to vintage dress watches, we’ve picked the 10 Omegas that, taken together, provide a snapshot of the timepieces this incredible brand can scale.
Seamaster 300 Co-Axial Master Chronometer 41mm
Blue patinated sandwich dial, subtle light brown calfskin strap, vintage SuperLuminova – this update on the classic Speedmaster ticks all the sartorial boxes. Despite being in the Omega catalog since 1957, the Seamaster has not lost its appeal thanks to its iconic retro styling.
The facade may be classic, but the inside has been given a makeover. This model is now powered by the 8912, complete with coaxial escapement, silicon balance spring and METAS certification meaning it is antimagnetic to 15.00 gauss so you don’t have to take it off if you need an MRI.
The lesser known of the ‘Professional Trilogy’ of tool watches launched in 1957 – the other two being the Speedmaster and Seamaster – the Railmaster was originally designed for railroad workers, scientists, electricians and technicians working near electrical power. It had a double case that allowed the movement to withstand 1000 gauss.
Now it’s a good-looking timepiece, with a vertically brushed dial and, if you opt for the ‘blue jeans’ version, a denim and leather strap, which exudes off-duty cool. Perfect for when you ride on the rails. Or hop on the Central Line.
Speedmaster Moonwatch Chronograph Caliber 321
For many enthusiasts, Omega sold out when it replaced the 321, the caliber that went to the moon, with the 861 in 1969, replacing the original column-wheel chronograph with a cam-driven chronograph, which is easier to make and maintain. It seemed as if the 321 and the Speedmaster were destined never to be reunited. Then, in 2019, Omega gave the fans what they wanted.
Using tomography scans — cross-sectional X-rays — of the last watch to go to the moon, Omega was able to recreate the lost timepiece. The initial introductory price was prohibitive for most, but in 2020 the 321 was made in more affordable steel. Which kept the fanatics from moaning. For now.
Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m
Unless you’re on a mission to track down the extremely rare black monkfish, chances are you’ll never need a watch that can survive 600 meters underwater. But it’s nice to have that reassurance.
First launched in 2005, the Planet Ocean is a tool watch that crosses the line between sporty and sophisticated. The chronometer version on steel is ideal if you want an everyday wearer that goes with everything in your wardrobe (except for a dinner suit), while the chronograph on a Nato is your ultimate weekender. Even if you’re not fishing for monkfish.
Seamaster Ploprof Co-Axial
If you think a watch with a water resistance of 600m is exaggerated, get to know the Ploprof – good up to 1200m. Confusingly the original Ploprof from the 60s (the name comes from professional diver, or ‘professional diver’ in French) was actually the Seamaster 600m. It had the signature case, with the oversized crown guard, and the ‘woven’ metal bracelet.
It was retired in 1979, but Omega renewed it in 2009 and gave it a helium valve and a new depth of 1200 meters. It is still a real tool watch and an acquired taste, thanks to the large case dimensions of 55 x 48 mm. But if you want a watch that can take whatever the sea can take on it, this is for you.
Silver Snoopy 50th Birthday
This watch is pure pure pleasure. The sight of the space-fit beagle on the dial, a tribute to the Snoopy Prize awarded to Omega by NASA in 1970 after the infamous Apollo 13 mission, is enough to make you laugh, but turn it down watch and it’s even more fun. On the back is a close-up of the moon with the Earth rotating in sync with the small seconds hand, behind it.
Once you start the chronograph’s seconds hand, it works in tandem with a mechanism on the movement side of the watch to send Snoopy blasting across the night sky to the dark side of the moon. That’s a complication worth boring people at dinner parties.
Power reserve De Ville Tresor
With all the fuss over all-time classic watches like Seamasters and Speedmasters, the DeVille Tresor collection is often overlooked. This rich burgundy version should change that – it’s pure dresswatch perfection.
Everything is perfectly proportioned, from the slim indexes to the elegantly tapered hands, all in Omega’s patented rose gold, Sedna. Installing with a manual winding action heightens the vintage vibes, while the dial color is reminiscent of rooms with heavy oak panels and the scent of single malt and cigars.
The design isn’t groundbreaking, but who wants revolution when you can have sophistication instead?
Master Stopwatch Tourbillon
You may not know it, but Omega had a huge influence on the tourbillon wristwatch. In 1947 it was the first Swiss brand to take this complication out of the pocket watch and put it on the wrist. It was only a prototype, but it paved the way for the likes of Franck Muller and Audemars Piguet to commercialize this complex complication. Which makes this futuristic piece of timepieces not the anomaly it first appears.
Based on a 1994 design when Omega pioneered the central cage position, this is now one of the most advanced tourbillons available. Powered by a brand new internal movement, the hand-wound 2640, it is METAS certified and as a Master Chronometer has superior shock resistance.
It also comes with an impressive five-year warranty and, as you can see in the picture, looks great too.
The overall aesthetic of the Constellation is probably best described as a dress watch for people who don’t wear a costume. The claws that hook over the bezel and the central connection to the strap undermine the more understated lines of the case and give it a brashness that feels a bit 80s.
That’s not to say this isn’t a beautiful watch. It’s bold, at 41mm not inconsiderable on the wrist and, fun fact, the shape of the indexes is inspired by the Freedom Tower in New York. It’s not as easy to wear as a Speedy, but certainly rewards the person who wants to add something different to their watch collection.
Seamaster Diver 300m 007 Edition
This is the watch that will accompany 007’s latest outing in No Time To Die. And in our opinion it is the best ally. Daniel Craig was called ‘the brute in the suit’ and this watch has that same quality. It has a muscular 42mm case, while the sand-colored lume has a military feel, an effect that is emphasized when the watch is placed on a NATO strap.
The arrow on the dial is a nod to the insignia used to mark British government property and the closed caseback is engraved with numbers the same size as military-issued timepieces with the 62 a nod to the year in which Dr No was released.
It has just the right mix of rugged army and sophisticated spy. More like Bond himself.